Zermatt and the Matterhorn

On a clear day, Zermatt is all about the Matterhorn. But, on the day we arrived in this famously car-free town , where enclosed golf buggy taxis hum around the streets, the Matterhorn was teasing. It's head was stubbornly stuck in the clouds. We joked about our "room with Matterhorn view", but still it was not to be seen.

But there is nothing you can do about the weather, other than hope for a break. The following day the morning mists cleared just enough to tantalise. It was almost like a strip-tease! Little breaks in the cloud gave you enticing glimpses of parts of this famous mountain. Then gradually more an more appeared until we were sure it was worth taking the Gornergrat railway up to view the Matterhorn closer up.


Even from Gornergrat the Matterhorn still clung to its teasing little veil of cloud.

There are hundreds of climbers who tackle the mountain for real. It was scaled until 1865 by Britain's Edward Whymper and his team, in 1865. On the way back, one of the climbers slipped, pulling four others to their death. As was then the practice, all seven were roped together and it was only by good fortune that the rope broke before all seven were dragged to their deaths.

The local churchyard is full of memorials to the climbers who do not make it. Still hundreds of climbers tackle the Matterhorn each week and every year a number die in the attempt.



The Gornergrat railway gets you up to 10,132 feet (3089 m) where - as long as the clouds are clear - you can enjoy the full vista of the mountains around the Matterhorn and further afield. It is worth checking the webcam before going up to see how clear the conditions are.

The Gornergrat railway is not included in the Swiss Pass (which gets you unrestricted travel on most Swiss railways, post buses and many boats) – however, if you present your pass you will get a substantial discount on the Gornergrat ticket. Remember, also, as you board the train in the centre of Zermatt, near the main rail station, that the weather at 10,132 feet may be substantially different from the weather in Zermatt! If yo want to walk around at Gornergrat, pay particular attention to your footwear. Snow packed down by hundreds of feet can be extremely slippery, so choose something with good grip!

We spent some time at Gornergrat, just soaking in the atmosphere and the views, while also catching our breath. The air is thinner at this altitude and even slight exertion will have people who are not acclimatised gasping for air!


Revealed - the Matterhorn in all its glory

The following day Zermatt patience was rewarded when the Matterhorn finally discarded all its veils and gave us the promised Matterhorn view from our room. We stood and stared in awe. We scoured the surface with binoculars. It was hard to imagine that, at that very moment, parties of climbers were challenging themselves and the elements to climb the mountain.

The memorial stones in the churchyard beside the hotel were a reminder that some might not make it.

Zermatt itself is an unashamedly touristy town. Everywhere there are chalets with balconies and window boxes overflowing with flowers, even in late September.


Skiers set off from the town in the morning

We stayed in the Hotel Couronne, a modern hotel quite near the centre of Zermatt. Clean, comfortable, with friendly, helpful staff. Our only quibble was that the free wi-fi internet which they promote is very slow (to the extent that some pages just would not load) and the wireless signal was too weak to climb the stairs to the top floor. Otherwise, it rated quite highly in our books and even providing free internet is a definite feather in their caps.


The main street in Zermatt. Flowers cascade from window boxes everywhere in Switzerland.

There are plenty of eateries in the main streets around the station. Our favourite, though, was Pizzeria Roma which was close to the hotel. It is a cosy welcoming place, with good food and, on the night we were there, it was particularly busy with a pre-wedding party - yet the service was first class.

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Switzerland - a photographic journey book at Blur

Switzerland - mountains, lakes and forests

Somehow European excursions seem to have skirted Switzerland. Apart from a few days in the exhibition hall in Geneva, Switzerland had not been a holiday destination since I was taken there in childhood with my parents. We were long overdue a visit!

Part of the reason may have been that it has, historically, been an expensive to take a car into. I remember trips through the Brenner Pass and round through France to avoid Switzerland.



First thing to remember is that - although it is surrounded by European Union countries - Switzerland is not a member. So, you do need to check over the entry requirments. In reality, many nations are welcomed for holiday visits without visa. In Switzerland, tourism is big business.

As such, most people in the main destinations also speak excellent English. But, please don't let that be an excuse for laziness.

I always feel that it is only polite to have at least the basics of "hello", "please" and "thank you" learned (phonetically if nothing else) in countries you are visiting. To blurt out your greeting or question in English, without so much as a "bonjour", is in my opinion, rather rude.

Don't be shy. In these days of speedy travel, people throughout Europe are quite used to dealing with and understanding mangled versions of their languages! The effort will usually be clearly appreciated.

Think Switzerland and you think of cheese and chocolate.

Certainly cheese is everywhere. Fondue pots bubbling with the delicious mixture of cheese, wine and tomato. Raclette - which is basically melted cheese that you scrape onto toast, potatoes, or whatever takes your fancy. Rösti, which is something like a American hash browns, delicious but often quite full of oil or fat.

You can almost feel your arteries fur up!


The beautiful village of Lauterbrunnen, near Interlaken

But I suppose there are plenty of mountains to climb to help keep you fit.

The best way to see Switzerland is probably by rail, bus and water bus. Public transport in Switzerland is excellent and genuinely integrated (not just being cynically dressed with the "integrated" buzz word).

Visitors from outside of Switzerland can choose from various travel passs. The Swiss Pass is top of the range and it really is worth considering despite the initial cost. Do the sums on your potential trips and you soon realise how good value it is if you really want to explore the country.

You get unlimited travel on most rail, bus and ferry routes. On the few that aren't included it you normally get 50% discount, including many cable cars, chair lifts, mountain railways and various discounts on museums (some free to pass holders). It is also very liberating to be able to hop on and off trains without having to think about buying tickets.

Most countries could learn a lot from Switzerland when it comes to public transport. The trains are punctual, clean, interconnect well (time and time again you find that the train you want to connect to is directly opposite on the other side of the platform ready waiting).


Excellent train system including these double deckers

Inter city trains are often double deckers and there are quiet carriages where music and mobile phones are prohibited, carriages with bike racks and family carriages with play areas for the children.

Sure enough you probably do have a bit more walking to do (although arguably so compared with finding and walking from car parks). As with most destinations in Europe walking is something you will need to do if you want to get te best from your trip. However, you don't need to be a mountain climber. Everywhere you go there are cable cars, chair lifts and mountain railways to take the strain of the serious hill climbing.


Jungfraujoch the 'Top of Europe' at 11,333 ft, reachable by mountain railway

Remember, though that - while the temperature may be balmy in the resorts down in the valley - the cable cars will often deposit you above the snow line at the top. The secret is to take layers, with a fleece, gloves and hat. Another essential is shoes with grippy soles, otherwise you end up slithering on snow, packed down by hundreds of feet.

Another thing to remember is that, at 10,000 feet, there is something like a third of the oxygen in the air that there is at sea level. So don't be surprised to be breathless if you exert yourself!

Down in the resorts you will find that many shops and restaurants are closed, or close early, on Sunday. Even in the capital, Bern, finding a restaurant after 7pm on a Sunday is a litte bit of a challenge. We ended up eating in the hotel's café bar.



Switzerland - a photographic journey book at Blurb