Having been in Prague on a business trip some years before, I knew it was a place I wanted to return to. I didn't think too carefully about the time of year to visit and it was only as we saw the fields carpeted in snow as the plane came into land, that I realised March can still be quite cold in Central Europe!Not to worry. The city looked as magnificent regardless of the weather and on our day of arrival we were greeted by sunshine. We had chosen to stay at the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, just a short distance Wenceslas Square. It's an art deco hotel that has been refurbished to keep something of that style.
That first day we headed into Starometski Namesti, the square in the centre of Prague. The star attraction here is the Astronomical Clock and we dutifully stopped to stare along with scores of others as the clock ticked to the hour and its parade of saints. I remember the last time feeling a little underwhelmed when this fantastic display was over. It was the same this time.
Starometski Namesti at night with the astronomical clock, left and the floodlit Church of Our Lady before Tyn ahead.
But the wonders of this city that - thanks to communism - escaped the worst excesses of 1960s and 70s development are all around. There is Kafka's house, and at the top of the square is the fantastic Church of our Lady before Tyn with its slightly sinister looking black spires.
Communism may have been good for preserving architecture, but, of course, it resulted in a turbulent and tragic recent history. In Wenceslas Square there is the simple memorial to Jan Palach who burned himself to death in 1969 to protest over the Russian invasion of his country. The invasion followed what was called the Prague Spring, in which Alexander Dubcek had tried to make his country less authoritarian. Palach's protest came as the tanks rolled in to reimpose the hard line. This was a reminder of how Jan Opletal died 30 years earlier as students took to the streets to demonstrate against the Nazi occupation.
That night for dinner we returned to the square and were reminded of the value for money when we enjoyed dinner at the Starometska Restaurant which came to less than £15 complete with the wonderful Kozel dark beer.
The next day dawned cold with snow showers as we headed to Charles Bridge. What is it with Prague and jazz. There was a jazz band playing in the square and another one who seem to be a permanent fixture on Charles Bridge, along with the stalls selling artwork and other souvenirs.
Jazz in Starometski Namesti.
Above Charles Bridge is Prague Castle - the largest medieval castle complex in Europe. Within its walls are St Vitus Cathedral, St George's Bailica, various palaces, a monastery and museums.
St George's Basilica in Prague Castle and, yes, that is snow.
The one excursion we pushed the boat out for (pun intended) was a night cruise on the river. This is a pleasant way to spend the evening with more jazz, some drinks and food while sailing past Charles Bridge, the castle and other landmarks. Again the soundtrack on our boat was a live jazz band.
Prague is a fascinating city for a long weekend. For us, the prices are quite remarkable and - while perhaps not the most stylish - the restaurants offer good honest and very reasonable fare.
Prague also seems to have managed what so many cities find difficult. While there are the big chain stores and multi-national names like Tesco and Marks & Spencer, there are also some fascinating and very unique stores too. Like the shop that sells wooden goods, or the many shops with glassware. There's also the outdoor market which, along with foodstuffs and bric-a-brac, has artwork and crafts.
Two things to bear in mind about Prague:
- There are lots of stag parties here. They never bothered us, but if it might put you off, choose another destination.
- Remember that the cold weather and the snow can carry on here well into the Spring and come prepared with warm clothing.
Brussels - the European capital. Centre of the European Union. Home of NATO. With that background it is no surprise that much of Brussels consists of rather soulless high-rise office buildings. But there are hidden charms to reward those who explore a bit further.It was through the streets of uninspiring 1960s and 70s high rise buildings that we arrived in Brussels for our very first visit. We parked in an underground car park and found ourselves a hotel on the Rue Marches aux Herbes (the old herb market). Once settled in we went out for a wander and, after following a circuitous route around the centre, we we heard the sound of drums.
Following the sound we almost literally stumbled into the Grand Place, or Grote Markt as it is known in Flemish. This is a stunning and atmospheric square lined with buildings which mainly date from the late 17th century.
Some of the guild house buildings in the Grand Place
This time our arrival in Brussels was a little more purposeful. We flew into Brussels National airport and then took the excellent value train trip into Central Station which is very handily placed for the Grand Place and the city centre. We stayed at the Royal Windsor Hotel which is very close to the Grand Place. On this occasion it was eBookers who came up trumps with the best package.
You can and we have, spent a weekend just staying in and around the Grand Place. It is a great way to unwind to sit at outdoors at one of the bars nursing a beer just feasting your eyes, soaking in the atmosphere, any time of the day or night. What adds to the enjoyment is knowing that people have been doing likewise for more than three centuries.
The Atomium, built in 1958 and recently refurbished
There are guild houses on three sides of the Grand Place, tall and narrow with extravagant gables covered in guilt carvings and sculptures. Man of these were for the trades guilds, but some were private houses. They were built in the late 17th century.
One of the most famous is the Maison des Brasseurs (the house of the brewers), which appropriately houses the beer museum. For beer lovers, this is worth a visit as it gives you an insight into Belgium's famous beers. There are said to be more than 450 beers in Belgium and this museum will give you an insight into the different styles. Any will do for me, althoug I do find the lambics sometimes a little bit vinegary for my taste.
The gold-encrusted facade of the House of the Dukes of Brabant
At the top end of the square is the House of the Dukes of Brabant. It is actually not one but several houses all with a classical facade lavishly decorated with gold leaf. Giving the house its name are the sculptures of the Dukes of Brabant along the frontage at the first floor window level.
On the north side of the Grand Place is the King's House, which is the most modern building on the square, opened from 1887. It houses the City Museum. Opposite is probably the grandest building of the lot, the Hotel de Ville or Stadhuis (town house). This magnificent Gothic building dates from the 15th Century, although it was left as just a shell after the French bombardment in 1695. There have been several renovations then and subsequently - the most recent being in 1996 when a new gold statue of St Michael topped the impressive spire.
We've talked about the beer, but where do you eat? On the Grand Place itself is t'Kelderke in the vaulted cellar of the House of the Dukes of Brabant. The door is low, so you need to remember to duck as you enter. Once in, it is a very informal restaurant, sometimes noisy with the chatter echoing off the old brick vaulted ceiling, but with bags of atmosphere.
The Grand Place
The serve local specialities like Moules et Frites (Mussels and fries) or Carbonnade Flammande (a Flemish beef carbonnade) all washed down with wine or beer. We tried the carbonnade with stompe which is a local vegetable and potato dish. However, three votes out of three takers would go for the frites next time.
Another traditional favourite is the In t'Spinnekopke with is a little bit more of a walk away, but still an easy evening stroll. This is an old bar dating from the 18th century, again serving local beers and food. It's well worth the walk.
But there is more to Brussels than the Grand Place. The streets round about are full of touristy shops and other shops selling the local specialities - beer, lace and chocolate!
I suppose on any trip you have to go and see the underwhelming Mannekin Pis, just to say you have seen it. You can also have a laugh at the various tacky tourist trinkets with figurines of the little boy relieving himself.
A short walk in the other direction takes you out to St Michaels an impressive cathedral that now stands, looking a little bit lost on its own.
Head a little further and you can reach the Royal Palace and the park, with the Belgian Parliament buildings. In the park see if you can find the spot where you can look at the Palais de Justice, the Palace and the parliament along three avenues.
The Kings House in the Grand Place by night
Keep going and you will reach the impressive archway that commemorates the cinqantaire of Belgian independence. Here auto enthusiasts will find the Autoworld motor museum.
A good way to see the city is to take an open top bus from beside Central Station. As usual you will have a chance to hop on and hop off the bus and we used this to good advantage to see the Atomium. Surely one of the strangest buildings in the world, it represents a crystal of iron magnified 165 billion times.
Built for the 1958 World Fair it has been more recently refurbished and the globes have returned to their original aluminium shine. The publicity would have you believe that it is packed with interesting exhibits and a chic café. The reality is that there are a few interesting exhibits and the café offers a few snack items, coffees and a limited range of soft drinks with one or two tables.
But, don't let that put you off. The Atomium is a tremendous addition to any tour of Brussels. Just remember there are some long stairways inside those 35-metre tubes, so - although there is a lift in the centre, if you really want to get the most out of a visit you will want to be able to tackle these stairways and escalators.
Brussels book at Blurb
