Capri, the enchanting Italian island

The island of Capri has been drawing visitors across the Bay of Naples since the 19th century and before. But, the tiny Italian island's stylish image was really boosted in he 20th century when it became a Mecca for the famous stars from the silver screen.

The result is a rather odd, but utterly charming, mix of rustic island life and sheer Italian chic. It is certainly a tourism success story.

We travelled to Capri in May taking the ferry from Naples. On our arrival off the ferry in Marina Grande, below Capri town we were faced with a teaming horde of tourists thronging to get the ferry back to Naples. In the crush, I was half expecting that our flowing against the tide would result in either us, or them, falling into the harbour.

This was, perhaps, a little taste of what Capri is like at he height of he tourist season.


Capri's Marina Grande and the town of Capri higher up the hill.

We stayed at the Hotel Excelsior Parc. It is a short distance from the pier at Marina Grande. Give them a call and their friendly driver will pick you up at the pier head.

Our room was at he front of he hotel with a superb view out over the Bay of Naples, with the distinctive cone of Vesuvius framed by trees. The hotel has a choice of rooms, some with spas on the balcony. The friendly staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome. We were greeted at the front door as if we were guests arriving at a private house, rather than guests at a hotel.

The Excelsior Parco is a short distance from Capri town, but it provides a free shuttle to and from the town until 9 pm.

The town of Capri nestles between the high cliffs surrounding Anacapri on the west of the island and the slightly less vertiginous cliffs to the east. It is a bustling vibrant town of narrow alleyways, filled with restaurants, cafes and shops. The main square Piazzetta has the usual serried ranks of tables waiting for hungry diners.

Because this is Capri, the prices in restaurants and boutiques can be high.



We selected Aurora, the island's longest-established restaurant, for our dinner and were not disappointed. As with the hotel, we were made to feel most welcome. Right from the outset, with Insalata Caprese (Capri's signature dish) and Pasta e Fagioli, we could tell this meal was going to be a taste sensation.

For our main course we both chose from Aurora's range of thin crust pizzas, washed down with Sicilian Tancredi Nero d'Avola Cabernet Sauvignon. At €144.90 this was not a cheap meal for two, but when it is good enough to be a memory that will last for years, we were not going to complain.

A trip to Anacapri is essential. We chose to go using the island's bus service. With narrow roads, Capri's bus fleet is composed of special compact buses – much shorter and narrower than normal coaches, to cope with tight hairpin bends and narrow roads.




We braced ourselves holding tight to the roof bar and hand rails as the bus headed across from Capri town to the hairpins that would take us up the steep rise to Anacapri. You would swear, when you saw an oncoming bus, that there was no way the two would be able to pass. But, they did. However, close inspections of the buses flanks reveals it is not always "without a scratch".

As the road rose steeply, I noted that one of our fellow passengers crossed himself. A few seconds later we saw why. The road here appeared to be pinned onto the side of precipice.

Villa San Michele is the place to visit in Anacapri. Built on the site of one seven villas built by Emperor Tiberius at the time that Capri was the de facto centre of the Roman Empire, this villa is an eclectic mix of design influences. Built by Swedish physician Axel Munthe, it is owned by the Swedish state and open to visitors. From its grounds you can enjoy a vertiginous view back to Capri.

For those who want a panoramic view, there is a chairlift to take you to the very top of the island.

Even after just two days on Capri, we could see why the island has proven so attractive to incomers from Tiberius through the 20th century film stars. It is a beautiful island with a fine climate moderated by the Mediterranean breezes and the people are so welcoming and friendly.

• Do you tip in Italy? The general rule seems to be 'no'. Tips are not normally expected by taxi drivers, restaurants and hotel staff. Taxis charge extra per bag and many restaurants have a cover charge and a service charge.

Easing security checks

The suggestions from British Airways chairman Martin Broughton, that some security check requirements at airports should be eased, is appealing. Appealing, that is, as long as we can be sure that safety and security is not compromised.

There is no question that the current requirements are a disincentive (albeit minor for most people) to flying. But, recently, I spoke to one woman who has to go on her overseas trips without her husband. Apparently, he just cannot be doing with the security checks at airports and, for this reason more than anything else, he prefers to holiday at home.



To a point I can sympathise.

My heart always sinks when I see a long snaking queue for the security checks.

I just know that you are going to have to do some dextrous juggling.

First you have to stow your boarding pass and passport, at the same time getting the mobile phone, keys and change out of your pockets. Then I have to get my laptop and/or iPad out of its bag, while at the same time taking off my jacket, whipping off my belt and removing shoes. Without anything to lay stuff on, this is no easy task.

Then, on the other side of the security area, you have to try and grab all these items (while holding up your trousers!) and then find a place to repack, replace your belt and put on your shoes.

it is all a bit fraught. Especially, as usually seems to be the situation, the security area is particularly cramped and full of other people jostling.

At the end of the day, though, this hassle is undertaken for our safety. So you really just have to grit your teeth and put up with it.

But, I do yearn for the days when you used to be able to turn up at security, leaving the laptop securely stowed in its bag, the belt round your trousers and your shoes on your feet. All you had to remember was to put mobile phone, money and keys in the bag, take off your jacket to go into the scanner, then walk through.

Whale watching

On previous trips to California we have seen whales from a distance. One time we watched them out at sea, with the occasional spout, sometimes a fin and occasionally a tail fluke. Later, from Point Lobos, we had a closer view of a whale in Monterey Bay, including the elusive tail fluke.

It will give you an idea of how far away it was that – despite using a long lens – the resulting photograph was one of those infamous ‘that spot there is a whale’ type of holiday snap.



Blue Whale – largest animal ever known to have inhabited this earth

We resolved, therefore, that one of our trips to California should include a whale watching trip that would take us closer to these magnificent animals.

As we sat on the boat heading out of Dana Point harbour, the captain made it quite clear that we might not be lucky with an actual whale encounter.

It’s like heading out in a Land Rover on the Masai Mara. You never know what you will see, or if you will even get to see cheetahs, lion and leopard.



Dolphins seem to be keen on people-watching

It was a beautiful day of blue skies and sparkling seas, so we just settled back to enjoy the boat trip, with fingers crossed that we might be in luck.

It was not long before the cry went up that we had, indeed struck it lucky with our first blue whale.

At up to 32.9 metres long and weighing in at an amazing 172 tonnes, blue whales are the largest animal ever known to have inhabited this earth. The naturalist on the boat informed us that their hearts are the size of a Volkswagen beetle.

It really was quite awe-inspiring to have this huge, monstrous animal swimming alongside our vessel. Then the cry went up that a second blue whale had been spotted.

We spent quite some time with the captain following the whales and as a fantastic finale, one of the blue whales performed the elusive tail fluke. Particularly elusive, we were told, for a blue whale. Apparently they do not often perform the classic tail flip. We were honoured.


Honoured - blue whales are apparently not prolific tail flukers

Well satisfied with the blue whale, our boat turned north and spent some time in the midst of a huge school of dolphins. As always, it seemed that the dolphins were as keen on people-spotting as we were on dolphin-spotting.

They put on a magnificent display for us, swimming alongside the boat and jumping, apparently just for the fun of it.

• We went with Captain Dave’s Dolphin and Whale Safari. It cost $55 for adults, but we felt it was money very well spent. While the trips take place year round check out the best time of year for the whales. We went in September, which is in the Blue Whale season.

Don't forget your photo ID if you head Stateside

If, like me, you still have an old-style UK driving licence without a photo, you may want to pay the Chancellor the necessary to upgrade to a photo licence if you are planning a trip to the USA.

Whereas, here, we verify our credit cards with a PIN, in the USA you will find that most places where you use a credit card will demand a ‘photo ID’. If you don’t have a ‘photo ID’ then you may not be able to use your card.



Suffice to say that, as soon as I got back from my most recent trip Stateside I splashed out £20 with the DVLA to obtain a photo licence, so that I would not be caught out next time.

The exception to the demands for photo cards remains restaurants. There, it is still the norm for the waiter to leave your card and the receipt and you are expected to sign it, take your copy and leave.

But don’t try that in the UK, no matter how hard it is to persuade reluctant staff to give you the bill and take the money.

Reclaiming Amsterdam as a destination

In recent years Amsterdam has really been simply our preferred European airport for international connections. So we found ourselves, for the first time in nine years, planning a trip to Amsterdam as a destination.

For our accommodation we chose to stay at the NH Barbizon Palace, right in the heart of Amsterdam. We had stayed here once before on a one night stop-over when returning from the United States. The Hotel looks out onto the square in front of Centraal Station, so it is well placed for exploring the centre of the city.

We like the hotel’s big comfortable rooms and also the rather unusual split level design.

We flew into Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport with KLM and, as usual, marvelled at the integrated railway station right in the terminal building. Within minutes, at very reasonable cost, you are right in the centre of Amsterdam at Centraal Station.

It was a winter weekend, so we did not expect the weather to be great. Unfortunately we discovered that the weather back home was glorious, while we suffered from drizzle and grey skies. But, when travelling, you just enjoy your destination regardless of the weather.



The Friday lunchtime was spent reacquainting ourselves with the charms of old Amsterdam. It’s a city unlike any other, with its network of canals lined with tall narrow buildings, with gables facing the street. Usually each narrow house is at a slightly different angle to its neighbour, and many seem to lean precariously out towards the street.

Most have a jib at the very top of the building, with a hook or pulley to haul furniture up and in through the window, the stairways being so narrow as to preclude furniture removal.

Having explored the streets, enjoying lunch in a traditional Amsterdam bar, and sampled the modern shopping mall created in Amsterdam’s old post office, we headed off for dinner.



A lot of things can change in nine years. Our favourite Mexican restaurant was nowhere to be seen. Then, eventually, we spotted a familiar looking building, now transformed into La Carreta steakhouse on the Damstraat. Once inside, we found ourselves at next to a large table of large Hells Angels.
The
The really wear a rather jolly bunch. But we are still trying to work out the alphabetical significance of them all being from eyes are Sweden or Switzerland. Well satisfied with their stake and beer, we headed back to the hotel pondering the question: was it the common first two letters of the countries that had brought them together?

Saturday morning dawned with the false promise of brighter weather. It was so nice to get up at a leisurely pace and head off into Amsterdam’s narrow streets to find ourselves a breakfast cafe.

After wandering around sometime, we like the look of Het Karbeel, on the Warmoesstraat. Having studied the menu and made our choice we ordered orange juice. Now that is something that should be so simple, but is so often a huge disappointment. Not here, the oranges were squeezed to order and the result was mouth tingling.



Fortified by that and the delicious omelettes, we headed off for further exploration.

There are plenty of museums and art galleries for the visitor to enjoy. There is also the famous Anne Frank house.

For fans of Amsterdam’s amber nectar, there is also the Heineken Experience.

We took in the floating flower market, or Bloemenmarkt, on the way.



A short walk from the centre of town The Heineken Experience is similar to the Guinness Experience in Dublin. The disused brewery has been turned into an interactive museum and tourist attraction celebrating the Heineken Heritage.

It is really well done, and although you have to pay to have a concentrated marketing effort focused on you, it is worth including on your trip.

America: the land of the free, or cheap?

In the UK one of the standard topics of conversation among travellers is how much money they saved holidaying in the USA. Well, judging by our recent trip, these days are over.

I well remember my first trips in recent years to America and marvelling at how you far the money would go. Accommodation, dining and even the stuff in the shops was so cheap compared with Europe. America was the land of bargain touring.

Having just spent three weeks touring in California it seems like these days are well and truly gone.

Certainly, there are still bargains to be had. $1.99 for a burger meal in a fast-food joint may qualify in some peoples’ books as a reason to fly the Atlantic, but quick burgers apart we found the story to be very different compared to our previous visit some three years ago.

Take accommodation, for example. We chose mid-range hotels/motels everywhere we went. Nothing fancy. Our average bill for our room worked out at around $100 per night, that’s just a little on the right side of £70.


Welcome to the USA, just don’t expect it to be cheap any more

The story is equally telling on the dining and food front. We were fairly middle of the road in the choice of diners and restaurants.

Inevitably we found ourselves at the mercy of franchised diners a lot of the time, but on other occasios we would search out a local pizza or grill and on a couple of occasions a restaurant that offered an experience a little above the ordinary.

Over the entire holiday our dining bill for two averaged out at a more than £35 per day. That despite the fact that eating out more than twice a day is impossible in the USA (due to the mountain of food you get offered) once a day is more common. Before you ask that did not include anything more than a beer or, on only a few occasions, an averagely-priced bottle of wine.

You needn’t pay much more than than for your daily dining in the UK or Europe, so the differential between the opposite sides of the Atlantic seems to have gone.

Finally, with such a plethora of malls and handy out of town retail parks, it is hard not to be sucked into the American past-time of shopping.

Experience here, again, suggests that prices are much more equitable between the UK and USA and that is even when taking into account that VAT is that much more than US sales tax.

The bottom line? The various regions of the USA are still among our favourite destinations. Just don’t expect accommodation, food and shopping to be the bargain they once were.

Pump iron before visiting LAX

Visitors to Los Angeles Airport (LAX) would do well to make sure they are in peak fitness before they get there.

Arriving there on a flight from San Francisco, we retrieved our bags from the carousel reasonably rapidly and set off to get a luggage cart. No problem, we thought, there was one just a couple of hundred feet away.


Coming in to land at LAX. Prepare to heft your baggage!

But LAX charges $4 for the hire of the cart.

Not too outlandish or unreasonable.

Except paying them for the cart seems to be impossible unless you have have either four single dollar notes or a $5 note. We didn’t.

No problem, we thought. It takes credit and debit cards.

Well not ours, it didn’t. After trying a total of seven assorted Mastercards, Visas and debit cards. That machine and two others returned a surly “incorrect card” message.

After lugging five large bags from one terminal to another we were of a mind to blacklist LAX on all future visits!