Interlaken gateway to the Jungfrau region

Walk around the main street in Interlaken and there are a couple of impressions that you will probably immediately grasp. Firstly, there are the grand hotels that indicate how long Interlaken has been catering for tourists. Their names suggest that much of that traffic, at least last century, was from Britain.

I say "last century", because now the tourists in Interlaken - at least when we were there in early October - were predominantly Asian. Japanese, Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. The draw for the Indians and Pakistanis is that the mountains around Interlaken have become the backdrop for many Bollywood blockbusters. Unable, to use the mountain regions at home, the film crews instead fly to Europe.


A hang glider comes into land in the centre of Interlaken with the Jungfrau range in the distance.

Carefully packaged Bollywood trips take whole families to Switzerland for the Bollywood experience. There is even a Bollywood restaurant at the top of the Jungfraujoch.

To be honest we found Interlaken a little bit disappointing. The town itself has not a huge amount of character, although as a centre - surrounded by spectacular mountains - it is hard to beat.

One of the must-do trips from Interlaken is the Jungfraujoch. It is a day trip and it is not inexpensive. Even if you have a Swiss Pass this is one of the few journeys where you will have to pay, albeit with a very substantial discount. You also have to accept that, in peak seasons, it will get inevitably get crowded - but you just have to accept that in return for the amazing experience.

Because of this cost, it is worth checking the weather before you decide which day to go up. You really want a clear day to enjoy more than a wall of grey cloud! If you can access the internet (many hotels will have internet access, but most, unfortunately, will charge for it) check the webcams.


From the Jungfraujoch you get up-close-and-personal with the Jungfrau itself

The Jungfraujoch is Europe's highest rail station at 11,333 feet and sits between the peaks of the Mönch and the Jungrau itself. The journey there takes about two-and-a-half hours with three trains. The usual route is to go up by Wengen, or Grindlewald, and return by the other route. We went up by Wengen and returned by Grindlewald.

The scenery is outstanding. Highlights include the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen. Looking back on it nestling beneath a cliff with a spectacular waterfall made us determine to go back some time.

From there the mountain railway climbs to Kleine Scheidegg and the change to the final cog and pinion railway which makes the ascent to the Jungfraujoch.

This section of the line climbs rapidly before diving into the mountain and most of its journey, amazingly, takes place inside the Eiger and Mönch before emerging eventually at the Jungfraujoch. What makes this all the more incredible is that work on this breathtaking engineering feat began in the late 19th century!

Once at the Jungfraujoch you have various options to take in the amazing panorama. On either side are the peaks of the Jungfrau and Mönch. Looking south from the ridge is the spectacular Aletsch Glacier, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its own right.


The Jungfraujoch, styled "The Top of Europe" at 11, 333 feet

There are viewing terraces on the buildings and from the sphinx (at the domed building on the top). It is also worth heading out to the plateau to view the vista without glass barriers between you and nature. (It is important to have grippy soles on your shoes as hundreds of feet will have turned the snow into something of a skating rink!)

At 11, 333 feet, you also need to remember that the Jungfraujoch may be sub-zero temperatures, even when it is warm in Interlaken and also, the air is much thinner than at sea level. (About a third of the amount of oxygen.) So you will find yourself at least a bit breathless with exertion, unless your body is accustomed to high altitudes.

A good day trip from Interlaken is to the town of Thun (pronounced "toon") at the head of the Thunersee. You can do this either by train from Interlaken, or by boat, also from Interlaken.


The hapless jester is still teased as he dashes through Thun 500+ years later

We headed by train to Interlaken, took in the sights of Thun and also stumbled across the Fulehung celebrations (late Sept/early October) which commemorates the humiliation of the court jester of Charles the Bold in 1476, for taunting the troops. The modern day stand-in who takes his place, is taunted by the youths of the town as he runs through the street in a parade with kadett bands.

From Thun, we took a boat trip down the lake to the beautiful Oberhofen van Thunersee. From there we wound up a very pleasant day by using our Swiss Pass to take the boat back at a wonderfully leisurely pace to Interlaken, while quaffing an excellent Feldschlossen Swiss beer.


Oberhofen am Thunersee

In the town itself there are a few street cafes, particularly around the Marktstrasse, where you can watch the world go by during the daytime, or have an evening meal.

However, our recommendations for eateries in Interlaken are the Pizzeria Horn, just a few hundred yards off the beaten track but well worth finding. The pizzas are made in a wood fired oven right in the centre of the restaurant and the quality and service when we were there, was outstanding. Not surprisingly, it was busy, so you may have to book.

Our other recommendation is Piz Paz, just off the hauftbahnhoff near the centre of town. The food and service were again, excellent and we enjoyed really excellent pasta dishes that the nearby Italians would have been really proud of!

• Search hotel availability in Interlaken or Thun and book at online prices. Book your flights to Switzerland and get your Swiss rail pass.

Switzerland - a photographic journey book at Blurb

Why is internet often a costly extra in Europe?

Access to the internet is rapidly becoming a necessity, not a luxury. Especially for travellers it is so handy for making forward bookings, checking in for flights, booking cars, finding restaurants and getting opinions on things to do and places to see on the next day's itinerary.

You can even use it to preview your route and destinations on Google Earth.

I know that makes it obvious for a premium price add-on and clearly hotel owners in the UK and Europe can't resist the temptation to charge you a ridiculous premium to hook up to their networks.



I really do wish, however, they would see the sense in the American model. When we drive along the freeways into any town we look for the "Free Internet" billboards and - all other things being equal - we will check out the hotels that offer free internet.

In other words, American hotels seem to see the internet as a 'deal clincher' - something to entice people to their particular hotel - not something to rip off the customer for more money.

Come on hoteliers! It can't possibly cost you that much to allow people to access a WiFi network. So why no use it as a promotion to get people into your hotel, rather than the one down the road?

Rocamadour - the village that clings to a cliff

I've always had a fascination for buildings that are built into, or cling to cliffs. I don't know why. But, as a kid I would pick up National Geographic and look with particular wonder at the cliff houses of Mesa Verde, or the buildings carved into rock at Petra.

That is why, on any trip to the the Dordogne, in France, the village of Rocamadour (about 100 miles north of Toulouse) was an absolute 'must see'.


Topped by the chateau, the sanctuaries are built into the cliff face

At the top of the village above the cliff is the chateau which was built in the Middle Ages to defend the sanctuaries, which cling to the cliff below.

Pilgrims used to come to Rocamadour and climb the 200-step Grand Escalier (great stair or steps) on their knees. It is hard enough work on one's feet! (There is an elevator for those who find the stairs a problem.)


Looking up to the sanctuaries and the castle from the main street

But those who climb from the quaint mediaeval street below are rewarded with the extraordinary sight of various chapels surrounding the terrace named Plateau de Saint Michel, all clinging to the side of a cliff.


Looking up at the chateau from the main street in Rocamadour

The main sanctuary is the Church of Notre Dame (dating from 1479). This is where you will find the famous Black Madonna, supposedly carved out of wood by St Amadour, after whom the village is named. The other sanctuaries are the Basilique St Sauveur dating from the 11th to 13th centuries and the Chapelle St-Michel, tucked in below the shelter of the cliff. The Chapelle Miraculeuse, which contains the relics of St Amadeur, has an 8th century clock - one of the oldest known clocks.


Looking down from the sanctuaries on the main street

Uluru has a special magic

Before you go there you realise, of course, that Ayers Rock and Uluru (the aboriginal name for the rock itself) is in the middle of a vast continent. But it is on the flight from Sydney that you really begin to realise how vast the outback is.

Our journey there went via Alice Springs and from there to Ayers Rock Resort, which is situated a small distance from Uluru itself. We stayed at the appropriately named Outback Pioneer Hotel and Lodge which proved to be a very comfortable base.

A short walk away is the Ayers Rock resort with its expected mix of clothing and gift shops, plus restaurants and groceries.


The distinctive iron oxide red rock seen here on the Olgas

We chose two excursions for our trip. One took us to the Olgas in the Kata Tjuta National Park where you have a chance to see the same sort of rock as Uluru itself with the red iron oxide giving it its rusty colour.

On the return the coach stopped at an overlook point where we watched the sun set on Uluru. As promised, it changes watching it colour subtly and beautifully as the sun falls down and eventually below the horizon. This really is a must do. You can begin to see why Uluru has such high cultural significance for the Anangu who are the traditional landowners in the area.


The sunset enhances the red iron oxide colours of Uluru

The second excursion was the Sounds of Silence Dinner. This comes highly recommended.

The coach takes you out into the outback where you listen to a didgeridoo quietly in the background while you enjoy a champagne reception as the sun goes down. As the didgeridoo player very honestly admitted, it is not a traditional sound you would hear in this area. The aboriginals in this part of Australia do not play the didgeridoo! But it was very pleasant in any case.

From there it is a short walk down to the "dining room", except there are no walls and no roof - just the vast expanse of the outback. It is, however, very civilised. You have a table. You have a waiter and there is a servery where you choose your main course. There are traditional favourites like steak, or you can be more adventurous and try crocodile or even camel.

As the sun goes down all you hear are the voices of your fellow diners in the still silence of the outback. As the sky above gets darker, the lack of light pollution means that you can see the stars... and when we were there, the stars performed the cabaret!


Champagne and didgeridoos at the Sounds of Silence dinner reception

An astronomer gave us a run down on the stars in the southern hemisphere, then patiently guided every one as we used the telescopes to view the night sky. A magical evening.

The best way to see Uluru itself is to go on one of the guided tours round its base. Some people do climb Uluru. But we were told that the locals prefer you to show respect for their cultural icon by not climbing it.

Ayers Rock Resort and Uluru may be a little out of the way to get to, but even the flight over the outback to get there is breathtaking. To be allowed to share the locals respect for the magic of Uluru makes it a trip well worth making.

Nairobi Kenya's bustling capital

Nairobi is East Africa's most populous city with an estimated population in the metropolitan area of between three and four million. Largely an uninhabited swamp until the end of the 19th Century, it became a supply depot for the railway then in 1905 it took on the status of capital city. It is said that Nairobi was chosen because, at 5,500 feet, the temperatures were too low for the malaria mosquito to survive (although current advice is you must take anti-malarial treatments).

Our arrival was at the end of January, yet the archway over the road from Jomo Kenyatta Airport still wished us a Merry X-mass (sic) and a Happy New Year.

Nairobi has all the trappings of a modern city. The streets are bustling with people and cars. The Matatus are the main form of public transport. These privately owned minibuses, taking between 12 and 14 passengers. On our last visit, many of them were painted extravagantly. But now they are all regulation white with a yellow band which shows the destination.


For some inexplicable reason the current special for the
street vendors dodging in and out of Nairobi's traffic is...
television aerials!

Before you go to Nairobi you read all the scare stories in travel books and on travel websites.

Don't go out alone. Don't wear jewellery. Don't carry a camera. Don't stop for the police. Don't walk into Uhuru Park. And the classic, don't shout "stop thief" if you do get robbed, because the 'law of the street' means that person will be killed before they can be apprehended.

It may be our imagination but Nairobi seems a better place and less intimidating than it did just over five years ago. You still need to keep your wits about you. I carried my camera in what appeared to be an ordinary shopping bag and family formed a corral around me as I took any picture. We still drove with the windows shut and the doors locked.

There are vendors everywhere trying to sell you stuff. This trip for some inexplicable reason, the fashion for the vendors who defy death by darting in and out of the traffic seeking buyers, was television aerials. Five years ago it was mobile phone covers.

My advice for those wanting to buy souvenirs (as opposed to aerials or phone covers!) would be to avoid the pavement vendors and seek out the Undungu Society shop. Not only is the craft work in their little shop irresistable, it is also reasonably priced. Better still, the money you spend here goes directly to help the Undungu Society's work with the street kids of Nairobi.


The 'ducas' where you can bargain for a bargain.

We ended up on both trips spending much more than we had intended.

When using a credit card in Kenya, remember to keep a watch on the transactions that come in in the weeks and months thereafter. This trip, sure enough, there was a transaction which the Royal Bank fortunately recognised as suspicious.

One of the big problems of Kenyan life is AIDS. Estimates are that are that one in four of the population has AIDS. If you face an uncertain future then you may live for today. If you live for today then taking the risk on the route to short-term wealth can be attractive.

Especially in Kenya where there is no unemployment benefit and healthcare, too, comes at a cost. On our visit five years ago I read in the Daily Nation that a doctor-assisted delivery at a hospital in Kenya costs 13500 Kenyan Shillings. Perhaps not a lot, but a small fortune for someone with no income.

So, seeing a foreign credit card can be a huge temptation for people who have little.


The old colonial meets the new tower blocks in downtown Nairobi

There are bound to be huge tensions in any society where there are two economies - the former colonial economy on one level and a huge gulf to the native Kenyan economy below. Those in the upper economy live in compounds guarded 24 hours per day, usually with razor wire boundaries, very probably electrified.

The lucky ones in the lower economy live in the slums and shanty towns. On our last visit it was extremely disturbing to see some, apparently, living in the centre of dual carriageways in and around the city. There was no obvious evidence of that this time.

The roads themselves are quite chaotic. There seems to be little order to the traffic and all gets by on a kind of anarchy. At junctions there are usually no priorities. The boldest at nudging out into the stream usueally wins. Three lanes on a roundabout often fight for two lanes on the exit road. But it seems to workin a chaotic manner.


House removal Nairobi style!

The drivingtest, I am told, consists of pushing a toy car around toy streets. Then a car load of prospective drivers is taken out onto the street by the examiner. One by one they drive the car a short distance. (The other way of passing your test, it is reputed, involves handing over the requisite amount of money.)

The other hazard for drivers in Nairobi is the 'sleeping policemen'. In many areas of town they are unmarked and have no warning signs. The first you know of them is when your head hits the roof. As if that were not enough, some of the potholes now consumng the ageing collonial tarmac look big enough to swallow a small car. Here again the five years between our visits seem to have helped.

When you arrive at a destination a white face is a magnet for the unofficial parking assistants who will eagerly guide you to a space - hoping, of course for a few shillings for their trouble.

I particularly remember one eager-faced smiling young man holding his hand aloft in a triumphant "I have a space for you", gesture, running along to the appointed place and gesturing to a place where there, quite simply, was no space for a car. Sometimes this is a kind of protection racket, they offer to watch the car for money. If you don't pay, goodness knows how much of your car will remain when you return.

Even on the petrol forecourts you are accosted by vendors of everything from wire sculptures to flowers.


Road side stalls in Nairobi

In dukas, markets and with road-side vendors you are expected to indulge in bargaining. You always ask for the "best price" - much as you might at an antique fair back home. Then you make an offer which, many of the locals say, should start at half the asked price.

Global brands have made relatively small inroads into Kenya. Yes, there is the universal Coca Cola, with the local bottlers currently battling with the giant over the future of the local business.

But we could see no Macdonalds, no Burger Kings and no Hard Rock Cafes. Local food is filling rather than exciting, designed to fill and nourish on the very limited budgets. However, there are plenty restaurants to cater for the international palate - Indian, Chinese, Italian, Lebanese, Japanese.

The meat is good, but tougher than we are used to in Europe. If you like your steaks rare or medium-rare at home, you might welcome a little longer cooked here. The toughness does not affect the flavour, it simply reflects the fact that meat here tends to be from older animals, the animals themselves have probably had to work harder and the meat tends not to be hung before it is butchered.

Venice where the taxis go by water

The idea for Venice arose because we were looking for somewhere to spend a long weekend that would be truly memorable and different. Somewhere were we would not be tempted to try to cram too much into our time. Most importantly, somewhere to relax.

Venice seemed the obvious choice. The fact that San Marco is a relatively small island would mean that we could explore quite widely in two days and not feel that we had barely scratched the surface.

The difference starts immediately when you arrive at the airport. Instead of walking outside to search for a taxi or the bus to the car hire lot, we simply walked through a door to a wooden pier to get the water taxi to the hotel.

You set out across the bay past a couple of islands and then in the distance you see Venice. As the taxi accelerates along the marked lane the back of the boat goes down and the balmy Mediterranean air rushes past your face. This is the way to start a weekend break.

Our hotel was the Bauer Grunwald, a four-star hotel quite close to Piazza San Marco. Our route therefore took us down the Grand Canal which was bathed in golden evening sunlight.


An evening gondola ride in Venice

The gondoliers were out in force and the sight of the famous Ponte Rialto added tothe rising excitement at arriving in this most romantic of cities.

Along narrow canals, our "driver" squeezed his water taxi through seemingly-impossible gaps between the canal walls and oncoming gondolas. How do they do it. Water is never as precise a medium for manoeuvring as tarmac, yet never did we bump and scrape despite only having inches to spare.


The famous Piazza San Marco in Venice

At the Bauer Grunwald we arrived by the water entrance straight into the lobby.

Our Junior Suite was perhaps a little less impressive insidethan we had expected. However the view of the city out the window was impressive. Opening the window, the sound of classical violins floated up from the square below, mingling with the occasional serenading gondolier passing along the canal.

The Piazza San Marco has to be one of Europe's great squares. Huge and impressive it has oudoor cafes on either side with two small orchestras on stage battling with their music across the breadth of the square.

For dinner that night I had secretly planned to find the famous Harry's Bar. Set up by a Venetian barman with money from an American customer who had reason to be particularly grateful for his assistance, it has since hosted crowned heads of Europe, top politicians, film stars and celebrities.

Deliberately the bar is difficult to find, with little more than the name etched on the windows to confirm its location. Open the door and you are faced with a busy scene. This is a bar foremost, but it is famed for the quality of its cuisine.

We had not booked and feared we might not get in. But luck was on our side.

After a welcome drink of Bellini we were ushered to a table upstairs where we ordered salads and the waiter's recommended pasta dishes.


We had been warned that Harry's Bar was expensive, but we were determined splash out for this special occasion. Still, eyebrows shot skywards when we noted that the insalata pommadore e mozzarella (tomato and mozzarella salad) which I had ordered for a starter cost more than the wine! But it was absolutely superb. Also superb was the pasta main course.

In the end, although staring in disbelief at the size of the bill (it translated into more than £100 for the Bellini, the wine and the food for two), we voted it a worthwhile investment for a great evening, a special atmosphere and outstanding food.

True to our plans the next two days were spent soaking up the atmosphere, watching the gondolas from the terrace, walking the narrow streets and alleyways of Venice and visiting the shops.

It was July and the city was busy. Giant cruise ships were visiting and disgorging hundreds of passengers.

But Venice is such a different experience that it has to be.... well... experienced. Ensure your credit card has space and pack your bag and enjoy the place.

Spring break in Prague

Having been in Prague on a business trip some years before, I knew it was a place I wanted to return to. I didn't think too carefully about the time of year to visit and it was only as we saw the fields carpeted in snow as the plane came into land, that I realised March can still be quite cold in Central Europe!

Not to worry. The city looked as magnificent regardless of the weather and on our day of arrival we were greeted by sunshine. We had chosen to stay at the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel, just a short distance Wenceslas Square. It's an art deco hotel that has been refurbished to keep something of that style.

That first day we headed into Starometski Namesti, the square in the centre of Prague. The star attraction here is the Astronomical Clock and we dutifully stopped to stare along with scores of others as the clock ticked to the hour and its parade of saints. I remember the last time feeling a little underwhelmed when this fantastic display was over. It was the same this time.


Starometski Namesti at night with the astronomical clock, left and the floodlit Church of Our Lady before Tyn ahead.

But the wonders of this city that - thanks to communism - escaped the worst excesses of 1960s and 70s development are all around. There is Kafka's house, and at the top of the square is the fantastic Church of our Lady before Tyn with its slightly sinister looking black spires.

Communism may have been good for preserving architecture, but, of course, it resulted in a turbulent and tragic recent history. In Wenceslas Square there is the simple memorial to Jan Palach who burned himself to death in 1969 to protest over the Russian invasion of his country. The invasion followed what was called the Prague Spring, in which Alexander Dubcek had tried to make his country less authoritarian. Palach's protest came as the tanks rolled in to reimpose the hard line. This was a reminder of how Jan Opletal died 30 years earlier as students took to the streets to demonstrate against the Nazi occupation.

That night for dinner we returned to the square and were reminded of the value for money when we enjoyed dinner at the Starometska Restaurant which came to less than £15 complete with the wonderful Kozel dark beer.

The next day dawned cold with snow showers as we headed to Charles Bridge. What is it with Prague and jazz. There was a jazz band playing in the square and another one who seem to be a permanent fixture on Charles Bridge, along with the stalls selling artwork and other souvenirs.


Jazz in Starometski Namesti.

Above Charles Bridge is Prague Castle - the largest medieval castle complex in Europe. Within its walls are St Vitus Cathedral, St George's Bailica, various palaces, a monastery and museums.


St George's Basilica in Prague Castle and, yes, that is snow.

The one excursion we pushed the boat out for (pun intended) was a night cruise on the river. This is a pleasant way to spend the evening with more jazz, some drinks and food while sailing past Charles Bridge, the castle and other landmarks. Again the soundtrack on our boat was a live jazz band.

Prague is a fascinating city for a long weekend. For us, the prices are quite remarkable and - while perhaps not the most stylish - the restaurants offer good honest and very reasonable fare.

Prague also seems to have managed what so many cities find difficult. While there are the big chain stores and multi-national names like Tesco and Marks & Spencer, there are also some fascinating and very unique stores too. Like the shop that sells wooden goods, or the many shops with glassware. There's also the outdoor market which, along with foodstuffs and bric-a-brac, has artwork and crafts.

Two things to bear in mind about Prague:

• There are lots of stag parties here. They never bothered us, but if it might put you off, choose another destination.
• Remember that the cold weather and the snow can carry on here well into the Spring and come prepared with warm clothing.

Brussels has hidden charms

Brussels - the European capital. Centre of the European Union. Home of NATO. With that background it is no surprise that much of Brussels consists of rather soulless high-rise office buildings. But there are hidden charms to reward those who explore a bit further.

It was through the streets of uninspiring 1960s and 70s high rise buildings that we arrived in Brussels for our very first visit. We parked in an underground car park and found ourselves a hotel on the Rue Marches aux Herbes (the old herb market). Once settled in we went out for a wander and, after following a circuitous route around the centre, we we heard the sound of drums.

Following the sound we almost literally stumbled into the Grand Place, or Grote Markt as it is known in Flemish. This is a stunning and atmospheric square lined with buildings which mainly date from the late 17th century.


Some of the guild house buildings in the Grand Place

This time our arrival in Brussels was a little more purposeful. We flew into Brussels National airport and then took the excellent value train trip into Central Station which is very handily placed for the Grand Place and the city centre. We stayed at the Royal Windsor Hotel which is very close to the Grand Place. On this occasion it was eBookers who came up trumps with the best package.

You can and we have, spent a weekend just staying in and around the Grand Place. It is a great way to unwind to sit at outdoors at one of the bars nursing a beer just feasting your eyes, soaking in the atmosphere, any time of the day or night. What adds to the enjoyment is knowing that people have been doing likewise for more than three centuries.


The Atomium, built in 1958 and recently refurbished

There are guild houses on three sides of the Grand Place, tall and narrow with extravagant gables covered in guilt carvings and sculptures. Man of these were for the trades guilds, but some were private houses. They were built in the late 17th century.

One of the most famous is the Maison des Brasseurs (the house of the brewers), which appropriately houses the beer museum. For beer lovers, this is worth a visit as it gives you an insight into Belgium's famous beers. There are said to be more than 450 beers in Belgium and this museum will give you an insight into the different styles. Any will do for me, althoug I do find the lambics sometimes a little bit vinegary for my taste.


The gold-encrusted facade of the House of the Dukes of Brabant

At the top end of the square is the House of the Dukes of Brabant. It is actually not one but several houses all with a classical facade lavishly decorated with gold leaf. Giving the house its name are the sculptures of the Dukes of Brabant along the frontage at the first floor window level.

On the north side of the Grand Place is the King's House, which is the most modern building on the square, opened from 1887. It houses the City Museum. Opposite is probably the grandest building of the lot, the Hotel de Ville or Stadhuis (town house). This magnificent Gothic building dates from the 15th Century, although it was left as just a shell after the French bombardment in 1695. There have been several renovations then and subsequently - the most recent being in 1996 when a new gold statue of St Michael topped the impressive spire.

We've talked about the beer, but where do you eat? On the Grand Place itself is t'Kelderke in the vaulted cellar of the House of the Dukes of Brabant. The door is low, so you need to remember to duck as you enter. Once in, it is a very informal restaurant, sometimes noisy with the chatter echoing off the old brick vaulted ceiling, but with bags of atmosphere.


The Grand Place

The serve local specialities like Moules et Frites (Mussels and fries) or Carbonnade Flammande (a Flemish beef carbonnade) all washed down with wine or beer. We tried the carbonnade with stompe which is a local vegetable and potato dish. However, three votes out of three takers would go for the frites next time.

Another traditional favourite is the In t'Spinnekopke with is a little bit more of a walk away, but still an easy evening stroll. This is an old bar dating from the 18th century, again serving local beers and food. It's well worth the walk.

But there is more to Brussels than the Grand Place. The streets round about are full of touristy shops and other shops selling the local specialities - beer, lace and chocolate!

I suppose on any trip you have to go and see the underwhelming Mannekin Pis, just to say you have seen it. You can also have a laugh at the various tacky tourist trinkets with figurines of the little boy relieving himself.

A short walk in the other direction takes you out to St Michaels an impressive cathedral that now stands, looking a little bit lost on its own.

Head a little further and you can reach the Royal Palace and the park, with the Belgian Parliament buildings. In the park see if you can find the spot where you can look at the Palais de Justice, the Palace and the parliament along three avenues.


The Kings House in the Grand Place by night

Keep going and you will reach the impressive archway that commemorates the cinqantaire of Belgian independence. Here auto enthusiasts will find the Autoworld motor museum.

A good way to see the city is to take an open top bus from beside Central Station. As usual you will have a chance to hop on and hop off the bus and we used this to good advantage to see the Atomium. Surely one of the strangest buildings in the world, it represents a crystal of iron magnified 165 billion times.

Built for the 1958 World Fair it has been more recently refurbished and the globes have returned to their original aluminium shine. The publicity would have you believe that it is packed with interesting exhibits and a chic café. The reality is that there are a few interesting exhibits and the café offers a few snack items, coffees and a limited range of soft drinks with one or two tables.

But, don't let that put you off. The Atomium is a tremendous addition to any tour of Brussels. Just remember there are some long stairways inside those 35-metre tubes, so - although there is a lift in the centre, if you really want to get the most out of a visit you will want to be able to tackle these stairways and escalators.




Brussels book at Blurb

The teaming plains of Masai Mara

No matter how often you have seen big game in a zoo, nothing comes anywhere close to an eyeball-eye-ball encounter with a cheetah, lion or leopard in its natural environment.

It is just a short hop with Air Kenya to get from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to the airstrip of one of the camps or hotels on the Masai Mara game reserve on the border of Kenya and Tanzania. That was the way we chose to arrive atGovernor's Il Moran Camp on this trip, but five years ago we drove from Nairobi.

Driving was more of an adventure. It is only 170 miles (270 kilometres) from Nairobi to Masai Mara but you need to allow yourself a good five hours and a real off-road vehicle is an absolute must. That's not just because the final leg of the journey is on rough tracks. The main roads on the earlier part of the journey are quite a severe trial too.


The fastest animal - the cheetah, capable of running at 70 mph

Nominally they are tarmac. But the tarmac has seen much better days, goodness knows when... but a long time ago. When you hit potholed tarmac you really hit it. For long sections of road you feel like your fillings are about to fall out and the suspension is going to fall off the car. Correction. What was that crash? You mean it has fallen off the car?

The final part of the drive was along unsurfaced tracks which, for the most part, were a joy and felt - by contrast - as smooth as a motorway. We would pass little villages, schools where the locals would wave as we drove by.

It is amazing how populaced seemingly empty countryside turns out to be in Africa. Stop for a picnic with not a soul around and, within minutes you are surrounded by curious faces that have appeared as if by magic.


Young elephant sizing each other up with a play fight

Our first trip was to Little Governor's Camp, transferring to Governor's Camp. Il Moran is the more exclusive and, yes, the tent is more palatial and the beds are more fantastic (the legs and bed head are fantastically created from sections of tree). But call me easily satisfied, or whatever, but Little Governor's with its setting round a water hole is my favourite. The fact that you have a river crossing to get there just adds to the adventure.

Let's be clear when we talk about camps. The Governor's Camps are under canvas, but that is where comparison with your scouting days ends. They all have concrete floors and a proper bath or shower-room out the back. At Il Moran there is electrical power from the generator for part of the day, but there are also oil lamps which add to the camp atmosphere. The good news, or bad depending on your attitude, is that there is good mobile phone coverage. So you can send those texts to amaze your friends and relatives back home.


A hippo emerges from the water hole at Little Governor's Camp

The camps are open to the animals so, after dark, you flash a torch at the door and a guard (or ascari in Swahili) will come an escort you to the bar, the dining area or your Land Rover.

We had a very early realisation that you live with the wildlife when - drinking a bottle of Tusker in the open air bar at the Little Governor's Camp - a hippopotamus appeared out of the water hole just in front of us. Later that first night a hippo walked between the tents, braying (it sounded a little like a demented donkey) just a few feet from our heads through the canvas.

On this trip I was awoken in the middle of the night by a loud crack. The light of dawn revealed that an elephant had taken a dislike to a tree a few feet from the tent and decided to snap it in two!

The normal pattern is that you have three drives a day with the camps' experienced drivers. A good guide not only has an uncanny way of finding the game, but can also tell you all about the animals - probably telling you their names and their parents' names too.


The 'aaaaaah' factor. Baby elephants on the Mara.

Take a good camera with you. A telephoto will be a big advantage, but you don't need one of these huge professional lenses. You really do get remarkably close to the animals.

In fact that is the most surprising thing about the Mara. At home wildlife will often run away as soon as we appear, even if we are in a vehicle. On the Mara, they get disturbed by seeing a human outside the vehicle, but when you are sat in an open-sided Land Rover, it seems to trouble them little - as long as you keep reasonably quiet and don't make sudden movements.

Lions, cheetahs, elephants and giraffes will pose quite happily as you snap picture after picture. So make sure you have plenty of space on your memory card or tapes for your video camera. You will just want to keep shooting! Then, in the comfort when you get home, you can delete the shots that haven't worked and keep the good ones.

On your daily drives you see not just the magnificence of the animals in their natural environment, you see drama and you see comedy.


Some of the best wildlife watching is at sunrise, so you get up really early on the Mara

One warm lunchtime by the Mara River four zebra sauntered up towards the crossing point where the wildebeest take their lives into their hands to cross the river on the migration. On the banks, silently waiting were the crocodiles.

The zebra walked slowly, but hesitantly towards the river as if each was encouraging the other. One zebra hesitantly headed to the waterline for a drink, becoming more bold as the others followed.There was a mixture of horror and anticipation as the crocs slithered silently into the river and headed for the rock where the zebra were drinking. With four pairs of croc eyes glaring from the water just two or three metres away the zebra drank their fill as the crocs waited for the slightest mistake.

Later we watched at sundown as a leopard slinked out of the tall grass obviously having designs on an antelope for dinner. It managed to avoid being seen by the sentries - topi strategically standing guard on termite mounds looking out in all directions - and stalked up towards the edge of the herd.


Watch out that rock has eyes... it's a crocodile!

The suspense came to nothing when the leopard spotted three hyeenas waiting for a free dinner. Leopards, our guide told us, will not hunt when there are hyenas around because they know the kill will be stolen from them.

Or there was the crippled antelope that could walk only sideways due to an injury to its back leg. It was trying to follow the herd, but while they went ahead, the young impala was walking sideways further and further out on its own... towards a waiting lion pride.

Just as it seemed it was almost going to walk into the open mouths of the waiting lions, one of the lionesses gave chase. Why she went on her own when normally the females hunt together, I cannot imagine. The lions looked hungry and the lame impala looked like a gift. But given the chances of success her chase was a half-hearted attempt.


Buffalo stirs up the dust giving chase to the lion

There is even comedy on the Mara. On one of the runs we came across a pride of lions eyeing up a lone buffalo.

Three lionesses took a cub and started stalking the buffalo. Whether they would seriously have contemplated trying to bring down a buffalo, or whether it was just an exercise to help the cub learn how to hunt, we don't know.

Anyway the the buffalo eventually spotted the lions and glowered back at them. The stand-off continued as the buffalo grazed on, followed by the stalking lions. Eventually the buffalo had enough of being stalked and turned to chase one of the lionesses.

Just at the wrong moment a male lion awoke from his slumbers (male lions don't hunt they wait for their food to be brought to them... quite like some humans) and sauntered into the line of fire. He then became the focus of the buffalo's anger.


The beautiful crowned cranes

A comic chase ensued with the lion just ahead of the buffalo and a trail of dust following the charging duo. Eventually the lion dived into the cover of low undergrowth to escape and nurse its injured pride. The King of the Jungle had met its match.

But there are also amazing examples of how the animals work together. Like the topi who dutifully stand guard on their termite mounts watching out for mixed herds of antelope. Or the zebra who migrate with the wildebeest and help them because of their better eyesight. Or the birds that send out alarm calls when predators are on the prowl. Or the baboons that gather the fruits from the topmost branches and throw them down to the elephants waiting below.


Even when I let the ladies do all the hunting, a lion's life is tiring

California here we come!

California is a land of amazing contrasts, great experiences and wonderful landscapes. How best do you get a flavour in ten days or a fortnight? I still think the route I took, on my first recent visit to California, takes some beating.

Fly into from San Francisco - a great city to spend a day chilling and acclimatising to the new time zone. Remember, that San Francisco can be quite cool, even in the summer. June and July are prime seasons for "June gloom" as Californians call it. In Europe it would be known as sea haar, or sea mist. It means that San Francisco and - indeed the rest of the Pacific coast - can be a little cool. (Click here for San Francisco flight information from the UK.)



San Francisco a great city to chill (occasionally quite literally) for a day or so before starting your road trip

I speak from experience having shivered in Carmel during July. So, pack a sweatshirt.

The ideal is to find yourself a hotel in downtown San Francisco and take a day to wander around Fisherman's Wharf. Yes it is a tourist trap, but it has to be experienced. You can also take a trip out to Alcatraz. And, if you are a chocoholic, then you have to take in Girardelli Square and the Girardelli shop, with its river of chocolate. Oh, and you should also take time to try a cable car ride.

From San Francisco head to the coast (optional stop at Santa Cruz), then follow Highway One (also known as PCH - Pacific Coast Highway) down to Monterey. Here again you can sample the very touristy fisherman's wharf area and enjoy watching the seals (holding your nose in the process because they do have a rather unsavoury stink).


Carmel mission with its bougainvillaea.

Just south of Monterey head into Carmel, with its manicured streets and lack of brash advertising. Chill out in Clint Eastwood's 'Hog's Breath" pub. Spend some time walking in the bay. Visit the neat little Carmel Mission with its bougainvillaea.

A short distance down this road is the Point Lobos State Park. This is well worth stopping off at to see the seals and the sea birds. If you are lucky you will also see the sea otters lying on their backs in the swell hammering seashells on a stone laid on their bellies. Watch out in this area and, indeed, on much of this coast for Poison Ivy which is prevalent in the scrubby bushes.


A sea otter at Point Lobos

Returning to PCH you head down past Big Sur and onto Morro Bay, with its giant lump of rock. Morro Bay has a bit of a reputation of being a destination for older people, but it's well worth stopping of at least for a walk around the harbour. If you are feeling peckish try Margie's Diner, which serves the most amazing platefuls of typical diner fare. American portions are big, the Margie's portions I have experienced here and in their nearby St Louis Obisbo diner are positively huge!

Continuing on our way to Los Angeles past Hurst Castle on the hilltop (the queues for the buses have always deterred me from visiting. But those who have say it is amazing. In Los Angeles there are many attractions, but bear in mind that the freeways can be slow. If you have two or more in your car, remember you can use the car pool lane.

Disney is at Annaheim, but many visitors will also want to see Hollywood and perhaps take in one of the tours. You may even want to see how the stars live.

Once you have "done" Los Angeles, however long you want to stay there, I suggest heading to La Canada, which is to the North West of Los Angeles. There I recommend taking the Angeles Crest Highway. This breathaking road will whisk you up out of Los Anges and into the mountains. If you come from a country where the elevations are less, it is quite a thrill to see the roadside signs rising up to 7,000 feet.

Make sure to stop and enjoy some of the trails and the magnificent views before the road comes back down, past ski centres to the I15. My preference then is to take the road to Big Bear City and Big Bear Lake. This is real Alpine scenery and from there you are about to experience yet another of California's 'wow' changes of character.

From Big Bear Lake take the road to Lucerne. The name might suggest a continuation of the Alpine scenery, but you are in for a shock. The road snakes down into a desert valley that looks like it is straight out of a Wild West movie. Pine trees are a memory and here you have the desert scrub in its place, with the backdrop of red mountains.

From there we take the road to Barstow to stay for the night. First time there we arrived after dark and the temperature was still over 90F. There's not a huge amount in Barstow, apart from the factory outlet malls a small way back down the I15 towards LA. It's a good place to stop for the night, possibly after a good pizza at Di Napoli's Firehouse.

From Barstow continue on the I15 towards Las Vegas. I like to turn off at Baker (which claims the world's biggest thermometer at the Bun Boy diner) and head to Kelso. This road will take you right out into the Mojave Desert, with its desolate beauty.


The restored Kelso Depot.

Kelso is not anything like the Scottish Borders town it takes its name from. Basically it is a railroad junction and you will usually find three engines there, either pulling one of the huge long freight trains or waiting for one to arrive. There's not much in Kelso, apart from the restored depot fronted by the macabre sight of a broken cross, presumably over someone's grave.

From there we headed south to Needles and on to Lake Havasu City to see London Bridge in its (relatively) new home. Then it was back on the road to Kingman. If you stop for the night, search out Capellos Italian Restaurant. A fine family restaurant.

From Kingman head north over the Hoover Dam to Las Vegas. If you are an electronics fan, this is a good chance to stop at the huge Fry's Electrical outlet, but make sure there is plenty of space on your credit card.

What can we say about Las Vegas. It's big, it's tacky... but it is fun. Just don't get carried away with your gambling otherwise you may end your holiday here! Look out for bargains midweek. The hotels fill up with Californians coming over the border to Nevada at the weekends, but during the week there can be deals to get you to stay and get you to eat in the casinos - in the hope that you spend money on their tables or slots.


New York, New York in Las Vegas and yes that is a roller coaster!

The hotels here are huge. The MGM Grand, for example, has 4,204 bedrooms!

If you have a three days slack on your journey, you should head from Las Vegas north to St George and then Hurricane to head down to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. But, be careful of trying to cram in too much, if you have only ten days or a fortnight to spend.

If you don't think you have time, just turn around and take the road to Pahrump, a short distance back down the I15. The first time I was in Pahrump was in 1993 and it was just a grid of streets with the occasional building. Now it has grown to the point where it is quite a sizeable city, albeit with many parts still looking a little unfinished.


Zabriskie point, Death Valley

This is a good place to stay before heading into Death Valley the next day. Or for the true Death Valley experience, stay at Furnace Creek.

You come in to Death Valley from the east side and there's a chance to stop at Zabriskie Point to look out over Death Valley. If you arrive in the summer months, be prepared for a shock. It can feel like you have stepped out of the air-conditioned car into a fan oven!

The hottest I have experienced in Death Valley is 126F, but the record temperature recorded was 134F.

From Zabriskie point you head down into Death Valley. The landscape is more like something from the moon than the earth, to eyes attuned to European landscapes. Our destination is the lowest point in Death Valley (and in the USA for that matter) - Badwater (-282 feet). On the way take the Artist's Drive (a scenic loop that takes you up to where the rocks are different colours due to the minerals in them). It's also worth going down to Devil's Golf Course, where the salt lake has been whipped up by the wind into shapes you would certainly not want to golf on, let alone walk on!

If you are feeling adventurous and and can stand the heat, try the walks by Golden Canyon and up to Natural Arch. But, be sensible. Remember this is called Death Valley for a reason! Keep yourself covered, wear a hat and drink plenty of water.

If you are a car enthusiast, you should keep your eyes peeled throughout your time in Death Valley. During the summer in particular many manufacturers use this national park for hot weather testing and the car you see in disguise may well not be in the showrooms until next year, if ever. One of the places you usually see some motor manufacturer's test cars is around the Furnace Creek Inn or Ranch.

From here, you head north to take in Scotty's Castle and the awesome Ubehebe Crater - a vast hole in the ground caused by a build up of geothermal steam.

There is a road out of the top end of Death Valley across to the 395 at Big Pine, but although it is marked as a road on many maps it is actually unsurfaced for much of its distance. I've driven it several times, but you may prefer to head back and climb out of Death Valley via Stovepipe Wells to Lone Pine.


Bodie Ghost Town where time has stood still

If you have time, head past Lee Vinning and take in Bodie Ghost Town. Bodie used to be bigger than San Francisco but it was burnt down twice. The fire fighters were drawing so much water from the reservoir that the outlet blocked up with rocks and the town was badly damaged. The second fire was once too often and the town was abandoned.

What houses and shops remain have been caught in a time warp. You look into a kitchen where the crockery still sits covered in decades of dust. In the shop tailors dummies and patent medicines stand where they were left.

After an overnight stop, it's time for one of those amazing changes of character that make California such a stimulating place to visit. Head back down to Lee Vinning at take the Tioga pass in to Yosemite. The pass takes you up into a world so different from Death Valley where you have been just a day before.

Here the air is fresh and the breezes are cool. All around is granite and pine forests.


The breathtaking view from Glacier Point with Half Dome on the left

Do some trail walks, enjoy the scenery and spend time in Yosemite Village and Bridalveil Falls. But do not leave yourself short of time for the drive to Glacier Point, south of Yosemite Village. This is one of my most favourite views in the world and well worth the 19-mile drive.

Again if time permits try to fit in a good few hours to walk in Sequoia Grove. These giant redwoods are just amazing and you will want to really take time and trouble to appreciate them. The walk to the grove at the top takes time but is really rewarding.

From Yosemite it is time to head back to San Francisco and more sightseeing in this fantastic city.

If you have time to spare, do take a day to head over the Golden Gate and spend time in the beautiful wine regions around Napa and Sonoma. Many of the wineries are open to the public.

Route 66 - the ultimate road trip?

It was really Route 66 that made the American road trip possible. This is the route that gave life to the West by opening it up to the automobile and the truck - hence it is often known as 'The Mother Road'. As one who enjoys road trips in the United States, this was the ultimate - the road trip we really had to do.

Established in 1928, Historic Route 66 was 2,448 miles from Chicago to Los Angeles. Although it originally terminated in downtown LA, this was later changed to Santa Monica Pier.

The normal way to do Route 66 is starting in Chicago and heading West to Santa Monica. However, there were three good reasons why we decided to be unconventional and do it west to east:

• Cost - it is cheaper to hire a car to go west to east!
• Once in Chicago there's less of a journey back home.
• We had relatives in Chicago where we planned to stay a few days to relax after the trip.

We decided to do the trip in style, so we hired a Ford Mustang convertible through Hertz for collection at Los Angeles Airport. There was some muttering among the ranks when we found that our car was Illinois registered so we were, in effect, doing Hertz a favour by driving the car home but paying handsomely for the privilege!


Ready to hit the road, with Santa Monica Pier in the background.

We duly drove to Santa Monica pier to start our journey on the edge of the Pacific. Soon we were rudely reminded of the realities of Los Angeles as we sat in five lanes of slow moving traffic inching through the Friday traffic in Los Angeles. Our saviour was the car pool lanes which allowed us to whisk past the slower traffic. What an incentive to find a buddy for your trips around the city! The car pool lane was bowling along at 70 mph while the other four lanes had bunching traffic and were travelling a good 20 mph slower.

Route 66 heads out through Hollywood which, interestingly, provides another link between the cities at both ends of Route 66. Film maker Francis Boggs moved his entire film making operation from Chicago to Los Angeles to benefit from better film-making weather and light during the Californian winter. With him, he took the Chicago name Hollywood.

The route to our first night's stop in Barstow should have been relatively easy but we encountered road works. Someone had decided to close off two of three lanes on a Friday night when it seems that half of Los Angeles heads out on the Freeway for a weekend of fun on the slots and tables of the casinos in Las Vegas. Our progress slowed from miles per hour to, quite literally, hours per mile and it was 2 am before we reached our hotel in the Mojave Desert town of Barstow - courtesy of some cunning map reading and a short detour.

The old Route 66 runs along the route of interstate 40 came the most amazing road sign. It flashed by announcing that the other end of the I40 was Wilmington and it was something like 2,400 miles away. For someone from Britain, seeing a road sign that has a distance in more than three figures is quite amazing!

These days the function of the old Route 66 as the main traffic artery to the west has been overtaken by various freeways. Only relatively recent have the US authorities realised the heritage and tourism value of re-establishing the old Route 66. New signposts and road markings proclaim Historic Route 66 and there are a number of museums and attractions growing up along a route where the signs of businesses having closed down some decades earlier are all too clear.


Signposts and road markings are being introduced to direct tourists to the historic route.

Having said there are signs and road markings, if you plan to do Route 66 make sure you have done some planning beforehand, because, in some places, the route is not easy to find. We got slightly lost on a few occasions and completely lost the road near St Louis, ending up just driving across country to rejoin the route further on.

One of the first places we saw this new signposting was on a loop in is was in Arizona where we left the freeway behind and headed out round a long loop of crazed tarmac, past townships, diners and filing stations that had closed when the traffic diverted away from their doorsteps. On this loop were towns with the name Essex and Cadiz. Also on this loop was Bagdad which now seems to be a cafe, a very small number of scattered houses and a few trailers.

These townships, now by-passed by the I40, are a sad reminder of what happens to communities when a new road passes them by. Boarded up filling stations and restaurants sported fading signs that had encouraged passers-by to visit. Weeds took the place of petrol pumps.

Just after the Arizona Border we took our first intentional detour to visit Lake Havasu City, 19 miles south of the 40. I had visited here 11 years ago and was amazed by the incongruity of London Bridge, with its granite sparkling in the hot American desert sun.


London Bridge, Lake Havasu City, Arizona

The city's founder Robert McCulloch realised the bridge would provide a focal point for his new city in the desert and purchased it for £1 million. Transporting it to its new home cost a further £2 million. In the 11 years since my last visit McCulloch's dream had come true and the city - which then had been a few houses and touristy attractions at the bridge, sprawled out towards the far hills.

That's the kind of vision and opportunity that comes from a land that has space to allow one man and his planner to develop a city and design it so as to attract a whole population to live in a place where only a few trailer homes existed before.

It's this availability of big open spaces that is so amazing in the central plains of the United States. You crest a rise and see the road stretch out straight to the next horizon ten or 15 miles away.

After and overnight stop in Kingman Arizona we headed on to Gallup, stopping at Meteor City (who stole the city - it's just a filling station and a few buildings) with its huge meteor crater - the most recent and best preserved meteor strike. The estimate is that the meteor was about the size of a Volkswagen Beetle. Before Kingman is the Petrified forest where perfectly formed trunks of trees (dating from when this part of America was in the tropics) litter the landscape.


Meteor Crater - a helluva big hole!

Heading into Albuquerque we could see the night sky ahead was lit up with violent thunderstorms. We were later to thank our lucky stars that we were not in the thick of the storm as the hail stones were the size of baseballs, smashing roofs and windows and covering cars with large dents. We also missed the flash floods and the tornado warning for just 25 miles away.


The shattered trunk of a tree turned to stone at the Petrified Forest

The next day dawned sunny yet again, allowing us to enjoy a rain free drive east into Texas and a new timezone. Nearing Amarillo we passed through Adrian which boasts the Midpoint Cafe (only open until 4pm) which is precisely 1139 miles from each end of Route 66.


The sign at Adrian marking mid point on Route 66.

You can guess what tune we had on the iPod as we drove into Amarillo! What a disappointment. The City's business loop is desperately in need of refurbishment. Run down and derelict it is hardly an advertisement for the city.

What Route 66 gives you is an insight into the past hundred years of the most powerful nation in the world. You see the road that took countless families to a new life in the west. These included those who decided to seek a new life in the west and those who had little choice. Like the farmers caught in the dustbowl era in the mid West when their lives were ruined along with their crops.

Setting out on Route 66 then was a hazardous adventure. When it was nothing more than a cart track.

Then came the era when every township on the way competed to provide more and more attractions for passing road users. The era of filling stations, motels and roadside restaurants.



One of a number of Route 66 museums along the route, recalling the heydays of Route 66.

The turning point for Route 66 dates from the return of the American military after the war. The US administration admired one thing about Germany - the autobahns.

So began the freeway building. These days I40 and I44 have bypassed good old Route 66 and for its entire 2,278 miles you keep seeing towns that have seen better days, abandoned filling stations, restaurants and motels. Yet another nail has been driven into family businesses as "mom and pop" restaurants have given way to a clutch of the usual franchised operations at Freeway exits.

Starting out in summer sunshine in California and Arizona, we now moved into Autumnal weather as we took in a small corner of Kansas and on through St Louis and into Illinois.

Journey's end is in downtown Chicago.


Journey's end. The Bean (officially 'Morning Cloud) in Millennium Park, Chicago

Route 66 is an adventure for anyone who enjoys road trips. We didn't want to feel rushed and allowed eight days for the journey, stopping where and when we wanted to. Rather than booking ahead, we would decide each night where to stop and look for the best deals using a combination of checking the internet the night before, reading the AAA Handbook and simply looking at the roadside advertising hoardings.

There may not be a huge amount of tourist attractions by the roadside, but doing Route 66 gives you a better understanding of the recent history of the United States.